It was eerie, indeed, to swim silently along the deck railing and up a stairwell where once sailors ran. And then to drift in through a window in the bridge and float around the main compass like a ghost where once naval captains with binoculars bellowed orders to the other ranks elsewhere on the ship.
The navigator’s chair is still there, though coral is slowly building up. An angelfish glides by taking a cursory interest in what was once a proud part of the Australian Navy. Now HMAS Swan it is sunk in 32 metres of water off the coast of Dunsborough, 200kms south of Perth.
It makes a brilliant dive. You can peer in where once sailor slept. You can see rusting machinery and look into the black hold where once munitions were stored. The warship grey is hardly visible now, after three years of coral growth. The 112-metre-long ship also provides a home for a huge range of fish. When I dived it a school of pufferfish had congregated around the bow. I had never seen them school before.
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